These short rows work the exact same way that binding off in the middle and decreasing on either side works. Multiply neck shaping depth by your row gauge to figure out how many rows youll be working this shaping over. casting on about 25 stitches and working about 25 rows. Raglan Fundamentals Fundamentally, a raglan is a sweater that is shaped between the underarm and the neck with four columns of decreases that go from the front and back of each armhole up to the neck. Increases are made around four fixed points. As Jennifer Wood explains in Refined Knits (and further explicated in a helpful emailthanks, Jennifer! Lily Chin said it first, and since her expert advice inspired and enhanced the series, she must be right! WORK NECK SHAPING ROWS Work back and forth in rows, increasing on both sides of each raglan on every right side row (or as desired) and at front neck as needed for your intended neck shaping (every other row for crewneck or shallow V; every fourth row for deeper V; or as desired). Now that weve checked out some of the benefits of this construction method, lets look at some drawbacks. Row 2 (WS): DS, work in pattern on WS to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. In contrast to yoke depth, which is the total depth of the top part of the sweater, raglan depth is simply the rows you work from the cast-on to the underarm. If you are accustomed to The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. This is a diagonal measurement and is more or less useless for predicting your fit because you won't know where it begins or ends in relation to your neck or your underarm. In a traditional raglan, you start with the neck size you want, increase the body and sleeves every second row or round until you get close to the body stitches you want. This action will also remove this member from your connections and send a report to the site admin. A sporty bit of knitwear that can take on many personalitiesfeminine and lacey, structured and austere, simple and chunky, or refined and fitted. I will definitely take a closer look at your spreadsheets. 7 sizes; XS-3XL Part One: Getting Started . Cant thank you enough for this detailed explanation and worksheet. The needle size does not enter into calculation of the garment pattern. I would not like to have to tear up the entire jacket. Knitting In the Round 3 Ways: DPNs, Two Circulars, or Magic Loop? The best feature of this method is that you don't need to change your needle size or yarn to Pattern Highlight - Cinders Posted on 25 Aug 07:02, The Top-Down Cordage Pullover Posted on 30 May 10:50, A Unique Spring Top - Homa Posted on 29 Apr 07:10, There's a Pullover or a Hat for the Rebirth KAL! How to Knit 4 Different Types of Raglan Increases - YouTube Im not using a pattern, but I guess there has to be some general rule for this. To do this neatly, you cast-on the underarm stitches and then join up the back of your body and work on to the other side. Knitters in larger sizes will often need to increase every row, and will need to add more body stitches than sleeve stitches. For a crew neck, youll want to use two shaping rates to eliminate stitches, so that youre getting rid of stitches faster at the bottom of the neckline. For some body shapes, this works just fine, BUT on the smaller and larger end of the spectrum, you can have problems. That area - the underarm to the neck - is called the yoke. Divide shoulder width by 2 for starting neck depth. A garment with raglan shaping has seam lines (or shaping lines) separating the sleeves, front, and back parts of the garment through the yoke. A beautiful raglan sweater with a gorgeous cable design. I was trying to figure out how to start and how to measure for different sizes because I am newbie in knitting. Add in my Rules 3 and 4 from above, and the problem grows. For some women, the knitted sweater construction can result in sleeves appearing too short and too tight, and can create discomfort at the underarm and armhole. 6-7 - somewhere in that range. This will be the number of stitches in the last row before any decreases for ribbing. The short rows may be worked all around the neckline, or just back and forth so that stitches are unworked in the front neck only. Add neck shaping to your raglan with short rows - JP Knits Things The sleeves are worked from the top down starting with stitches picked up from around the armhole.. The content is awesome. Crafty Confessions: Do You Make a Gauge Swatch? You will also need to have stitch holders The sleeve cap has to stretch over the outer joint of the shoulder and across the top of the shoulder to the neckline, requiring a flat plane of fabric to curve over an angled area. This ones for designers and knitters - lets talk about what makes a raglan click! The Audubon Shrug is truly special. Improv: Basic pattern for a top-down seamless sweater Interested in getting technical content, inspiration, and fit tips delivered directly to your inbox? You can tell a sweater has raglan construction when you see 2 diagonal lines on each side (and on both the front and the back), starting at the inside neck and ending at the underarm. Raglan length goes all the way up to your shoulder so it will be different for every sweater depending on neck width, depth. I would not aim for a highly customized fit in a raglan, but you can certainly get a more body-conscious fit in a raglan than you would a drop-shoulder. It would be back and forth in rows although you can still do it after you join in the round and then resume working in the round once the short rows are complete. E.g. Every raglan seam should have the same 2 increases worked for each one as that way you are going to have the same seamline at each point. Every round neck starts with a flat bottom. You can change the way increases look by adjusting the number of knit stitches between them. Thanks so much for sharing you work, I really appreciate it!!! Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top down and involves a long, slanted seam running from the neck to the underarm. I debated changing the Raglan increases because I generally prefer to have the increase line extend all the way down below the armpit. Knitting is about 90% (don't quote me on that %, it's an estimate) math, and that's what Excel is great at, so it's pretty natural, I think, to use them together. Any. One of the disadvantages of sweaters constructed seamlessly is the lack of structure provided by seams. having a pattern that spells everything out to the letter Sometimes, then, well see necklines that work well in the middle and larger sizes, but because the shoulder gets more narrow as sizes get smaller, the smallest sizes dont have adequate depth. I hope that these examples get you started thinking about how much control you have over your raglan knitting projects :), 4607 Library Road Ste 220-206 This was traditionally the most common method of top-down knitting as its very easy to knit. The shaping of the sleeve must match . A raglan can be worked either bottom-up (with decreases to shape the pieces) or top-down (with increases to shape the pieces). That means the formula is: ((Stitches in front neck bottom neck stitches) divided by two) 1 = stitches to shape out on each side. With certain yarns, the sweater may twist on you over time, having been knitted in a spiral, which is what in the round technically ends up being. Ysolda Teague explains how she calculated her compound raglan yoke for Stripy, a multi-part tutorial on fit. Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts! Thank you soon much for the tutorial. Posted on 28 Jan 15:32, The Ripening of the Raspberry Cheesecake Capelet Posted on 27 Oct 18:04, New & Improved - Stormy Top Posted on 13 Oct 23:59, It's time for Autumn Field Socks! This file is awesome. Because the top of the sleeve forms the neck edge, the front neck shaping can be included in the final rows of the sleevesangle the top of the cap by working more shaping on the side that will correspond with the front of the body. Ideally the test My goal is to give you some room to breathe! Half of the shoulder width + raglan depth = yoke depth. When you are creating your raglan seam, you can use any type of increase that you wish. Before launching into your short rows, you will need to calculate the number of rows youll be following the pattern instructions before beginning your neck shaping. Im familiar with the general concenpt, but unsure of how Ill know where to start the raglan increases. the shaping formula - YouTube If your pattern has a stitch between the front and the shoulders for the raglan increase itself, assign that stitch to the sleeve. If youre not a raglan-lover, decide whether your lack of affection stems from this sweaters armhole shaping and how it works for your unique figure, or if you simply need to tweak fit as you make your raglans. Here are five of the most common raglan adjustments that modern pattern designers use to create a better-fitting top-down seamless sweater. and styles, the information on this site is presented without warranty regarding As near as I can tell, that's happening because the designer has heard that they need to add short rows to the back but they don't really understand why or how. When you knit a raglan the traditional top-down way ( as detailed in my tutorial ), what you're making for the yoke is a flat rectangle with a hole in the middle for your head and mitered corners, which are the raglan "seams.". Have a full bust and tum? If youve got pattern work near the neck, you can even put those short rows lower down the back as well. Contains spam, fake content or potential malware, How to Sew Crochet Motifs to Your Clothes, 5 Things That Made Our Yarn-y Hearts Happy at Yarn Fest Loveland 2023, Floral Beaded Jewelry Patterns for Mothers Day, Unique Ways to Have Quality Yarn-Time with Mom. If you do a few calculations, you can adjust for yourself, in the same way, to fit a pattern exactly to your body shape. Round to an even number. If youre working with a gauge over 4, divide the number of stitches and rows by 4 to get the gauge over a single inch. I'm going to be extremely direct here, and if you think I'm wrong - write back and tell me. For example, sleeve length can be easily extended or shortened simply by ceasing knitting at the desired point. Subtract starting front neck depth from desired front neck depth to get neck shaping depth. If rows used in shaping is MORE rows than you calculated when you worked out desired neck depth, youll need to either increase the number of bottom neck stitches or work more rate A rows. How do I know where to put them, so that it will fit on me? It is really helpful! In a word, geometry. Compound shaping bends the raglan line into gentle arcs. A child's proportions are different: Dear Knittingfool, Reduce the number of bottom neck stitches or work fewer rate A rows. These lines extend from the underarm up to the neckline finish. Cecelia. If rows used in shaping is FEWER rows than you calculated, youll need to eliminate stitches more slowly. To get from raglan depth to yoke depth, you need to add in one-half of the shoulder stitches. It doesnt always create perfect results, but with a little bit of knowledge, you can easily adjust patterns to suit your body and taste. To help you apply this to your own project, I've created a downloadable PDF worksheet - you can get that here: I have noticed that neckline shaping is most often omitted when theres colorwork, and knitting (and designing) a colorwork sweater is easiest when worked from the bottom up. It is acceptable to work a few extra rows into the I am so tired of looking for a pattern that I have in my head with yarn that doesnt seem to match any of their gauges! Short rows cannot accommodate long straight vertical lines. Its deep back covers any unsightly lumps we may have, and the tailored style is classic. I love hearing what you have to say! Comments must be approved before showing up. Regards, Sarah. appropriate to the gauge you enter are needed. Half of our bottom neck stitches come before the marker. As long as that shoulder is around 2 wide, you should have adequate room in the back neck without adding extra shaping. Sign up here! The test square should be made by This is Linda, wearing Soft Structure, which has a shallow V-neck, and more increases in the front than the back - worked beneath the underarm. This is the shoulder width, and from the top of the shoulder, half the width will fall the front and half to the back. Hello, thanks for your interesting explanation. calculator can accommodate another increment or two for fine tuning. It is used to suggest a smaller needle size for the ribbing. In a raglan, stitches from the sleeve contribute to neck depth (see illustration below). This action will also remove this member from your connections and send a report to the site admin. Welcome back to the Sweater Construction series! Twist & Fade Raglan Part 1 Ravin Sekai Designs Kristen TenDyke's Blog: How I design a top-down raglan pullover The shaping of the sleeve must match the front and back shaping so that all the pieces fit together properly. You probably then want to add a few more underarm increases to bring the bust size up to what you need. If all of this is still sounding a bit much to take on by yourself, Im always adding patterns to my Teachable Workshops. For the raglan inc, when you add in the different directions for sleeve increases only or body increases only, those formulas do not seem to add up. This blog post from Amy Herzog is a fantastic resource for different neckline shapes and the shaping rates that create them. Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. Swap a round crew for a v-neck by choosing a deeper neckline and binding off just 3 sts at the bottom. which most of your sweater will be done. Because the raglan lines draw the eye in from the curves of the bust, theyre quite flattering on curvy womenemphasizing the bust while creating a look of feminine narrowness across the shoulders. One in about a 3-4T and the second will be about a Common misconception: all raglans increase in the front and body every other row and are seamless. I wanted to make sure it was perfect for you, and I'm grateful for her sharp eye and clear voice. adventurous. Lisas List: 10 Reasons Knitting Is Better Than Dating, Spurned Gifts: When Knit & Crochet Gifts Went Wrong. the top. About the needle size. As weve already seen, raglan sweaters too employ geometry ruleswhether theyre constructed from the top down or the bottom up, the neck opening is essentially a rectangle that grows at its 4 corners into trapezoids or cones. The first that I want to talk about is top-down seamless raglan. Here are a few great sweater patterns using the raglan construction method. Sigma Tee by Melissa Wherle, from the eBook, Easy Seamless Sweaters to KnitAh, the raglan. It can be helpful to think of it as turning away from stitches, almost as if we had placed them on waste yarn. :), I am currently knitting your Travelers End pattern and I am loving the cable pattern. Working a smaller size and realize the yoke is too shallow? Put on a button-down or other non-stretch shirt with a shoulder seam. If you've seen a pattern that has short rows that are worked just between the raglan columns in the back, you probably want to skip those rows. critical to the proper fit of any sweater pattern. There's a Pullover or a Hat for the Rebirth KAL! stitch for your test piece, you will have to mentally substitute the name of your pattern stitch Check the illustration below. are different: I love your site, especially the raglan seamless sweater calculator. Crafty Confessions: Do You Make a Gauge Swatch? Might be easiest starting with a pattern? Great job and thank you for sharing! measurement plus an allowance for ease of fit as a basis for all other measurements. Those bust darts should extend part way into the sleeves. With the left needle tip, reach down and pick up the left leg of the stitch 2 rows below the stitch on your right needle. Lisa Shroyer, from Knitting Plus Remember - what we're doing with short rows is leaving some stitches in the front unworked. I have to learn a lot!. Raglan: [biographical name] 1st Baron 1788-1855 FitzRoy James Henry Somerset British field marshal. Why dont traditional raglans always fit womens figures perfectly, even when designers, crocheters, and knitters have achieved the perfect armhole depth? You need room for your neck, or your sweater will ride up onto your neck and pull. It starts with a cowl neck, uses short rows to shape the back of the neck and then uses raglan increases on either side of a decorative seam. Raglan Construction A Look at Top-Down Knitting Techniques. For a crew neck, this is typically 40 55 % of front neck certain stitches. However, it doesnt really give the most stable underarm area. A Free Bracelet Beading Pattern for Valentines Day. If this is your first sweater I recommend starting with the Tilda pattern. Ive designed an awful lot of top-down raglan sweaters and cardigans. The chest measurement is treated as the 100%; all other measurements are some portion We know well need to close the gap between our bottom neck stitches and our neck stitches by eliminating stitches as we work towards the neck. The style of these "lines" can be different depending on the design, but here are some examples of what it looks like this: Arlo & Alice baby/child cardigan Those stitches sit right across the top of the neck, and contribute to front and back neck depth. Its very rare that a raglan wont need front neck shaping - the shoulder width needs to be about six inches wide for that to work. You can work those short rows right up against each other the same way you can work one decrease every row when you bind off. The raglan sweater is characterized by diagonal shaping along the join between the sleeve cap and upper body. These workshops are designed to be there every step of the way as you work on your chosen project. In comparison to a sweater that is knit in small pieces and seamed together the one big piece may feel more cumbersome to work with as it grows into a sweater. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. It increases more rapidly between the neck and shoulders and at the end to curve around the underarm, [with] more gradual [increasing] in the section in between. This is because you can keep working in the same direction as that type of cast-on. Learn how to knit the easy way, how to knit the raglan armhole shapingHere is the link to my other knitting channelwww.youtube.com/channel/UC7dn1Kn3wCkjERvV3. I have the Banstead Pullover in my queue; the slightly ruched slip-stitch panel at the center front is such a neat element, and so flattering. To work a raglan from the top down, you would begin at the neck edge and achieve the raglan shaping with increases. Divide the number of shoulder stitches by the stitches per inch from your gauge. Add or subtract armhole depth, and those diagonal lines between body and sleeves (the raglan lines) change their slope. If you're a designer and you're doing this and you want to help me understand what your goal was, please do write back! The pattern is written as if the pattern stitch is stockinette stitch. Whether . The compound raglan allows for a more flattering fit because the rate of increase varies to more accurately follow the shape of the body. Its a vertical measurement and you just apply your row gauge to the number of rows worked. I am in a happy place. Raglan shaping formulas All Rights Reserved. That code will be available when you purchase the patterns or digital book. Add a few rows to the yoke to make it deeper, or decrease fewer times in the sleeve to make the shoulders wider. I cant wait to try this formula out. For bonus points, reference a sweater you have and love that has the perfect crew neck. Even when you adjust armhole depth on a sweater pattern and recalculate the raglan increases or decreases, youre going to see a smooth(ish) diagonal line between body and sleeves. Beginning at the neck, the number of stitches on the front (s), back, and sleeves increase at regular intervals along these lines. In raglans worked from the bottom up, the raglan shaping is achieved with decreases. Knowing your gauge is You can do this by adding short rows across the back of the neck. Lift that stitch up with the left needle (see photo #2). Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift. The front neck can be shaped with short rows or by binding off in the middle and working decreases on either side. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. NOTE: The photos and methodology described in this post were both updated in August 2016. You can find more info about Anne Marie and the. Ive struggled with them for longer than I should have, and am learning a lot! BTWmany of the Dovestone patterns are on my project list :). My reason for contacting you is just to let you know that the percentages for the Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top-down and involves a long, slanted (or sometimes curved) seam running from the neck to the underarm. They dont necessarily need to be read in order but the more you know the better prepared you will be to decide which sweater construction method is best for you. Or consider joining my Patreon for member perks. I have one question, is there any way to amend a lower armhole in a top-down ranglan sweater when you have finished the sweater? Browse designs or Try DIY Knitting a Raglan Sweater Pattern the Simple Way | Interweave For a raglan to fit well, the yoke has to be deep enough for the rise of your shoulder (our shoulders are not flat lines across, but rise from the tip of the shoulder to the inside point of the neck), your armhole, and some wearing ease (usually about 1). Im about to start knitting a top-down raglan sweater in the round with short rows in the back. half the body-width. Raglan Construction - A Look at Top-Down Knitting Techniques Jean, I'm so happy to share what I know with others, and I'm glad you think this is useful! This is post 7 of 7 in the series Sweater Construction Methods. Am enjoying your Craftsy class on short rows. body or the arm length. Additionally the increases allow for great creativity to highlight the style lines of the raglan seam. By determining desired stitch and row counts, and then determining the number of increases to make, you arrive at a sweater that fits perfectly. If you have an odd number of neck stitches, Bottom neck stitches should also be odd, and if you have an even number of neck stitches, bottom neck stitches should be even. Im planning a top down raglan that will be partly machine knit and partly hand knit (color work on body and sleeves just below division from yoke). Lets call this C. If you have an even number of stitches, simply divide bottom neck stitches by two. The extended sleeve cap, which matches the yoke in depth and number of rows, has a diagonal tension (a line of stress in the fabric) that cuts across the outer arm and shoulder and can be uncomfortable for women with larger upper arms or broad shoulders. LCx3 - work 6 stitches in a left leaning cable (3 stitches over 3 stitches) LCx2 - work 4 stitches in a left leaning cable (2 stitches over 2 stitches) ssk - slip as if to knit, slip as if to purl, knit the 2 slipped sts together. Or be a bit Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top down and involves a long, slanted seam running from the neck to the underarm. To create a raglan, a designer will determine the desired yoke depth, shoulder width (stitches at the neck), neck width, bust circumference, and bicep circumference. This is the number of inches youll need to lower the front neck to create your dream neckline. The Ripening of the Raspberry Cheesecake Capelet. Throughout this Interweave series on raglan fit and construction, all contributors have proclaimed their love for top-down raglans and raglans in general. Any questions? Overall, consider how much neck depth the shoulder shaping is contributing, and evaluate how much additional depth neckline shaping adds. Modern Raglan Sweater Adjustments to Get a Better Fit March 8, 2012 - Lauren. To allow for a better fitting neckline on crew neck raglan pullovers, designers will add short row shaping along the back of the neck to raise the back above the front . My FO demonstrates the wisdom of her advice (as well as her eye for a stunning cable motif). I prefer to turn to the wrong side of the work and using a Cable Cast-On, which is lovely and firm. us newbies. This is a pattern for working the body of the sweater as one piece starting from Divide shoulder width by 2 for starting neck depth. In August 2015 I released the book, Dovestone Hills, which coincided with the release of baa ram ewes Dovestone DK yarn. If you use some other The defining characteristics of Raglan sweaters is that they have no shoulder seam. However it can also be worked in pieces and seamed together. Any input would be greatly appreciated. When you're knitting a top-down raglan sweater, you can make raglan increases in many dif. You will need to mentally reckon with yourself that you will at some point have almost an entire sweater in your lap while you are still knitting with it, this will put more weight onto your hands and wrists. Instead of avoiding those patterns, what if you put in some neck shaping of your own? I have been using Excel for years to ensure I understand the pattern and to create a clear, clean pattern customized just for me! I have downloaded it into my computer and will have it available any time I need it. I know how much time and detail you have put into this and I sincerely appreciate it! The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. Yoke depth is determined by the body's dimensions, Raglan shaping needs to mirror the body's shape, "Raising the back neck too quickly," and other short row shaping myths, Myth 1: Short rows in raglans can be worked across the back neck only, Myth 2: Short rows in the neckline can raise the back neck too fast, Modifying a raglan sweater to fit you perfectly. Fortunately, we crocheters and knitters have control over our own garments, and theres no rule demanding a smooth, straight raglan line. The pattern you will get from this process will be a guideline to making a Pittsburgh, PA USA 15102. Please allow a few minutes for this process to complete. Ravelry: Bottoms Up Raglan pattern by Claudia Policarpo Either print and draw right on, or highlight cells to illustrate your dream shaping. Now we see why the sweater might poof out just above the breasts or right at the armpit. The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. But if you want to love raglans, or have already lost your heart to them, compound shaping (and all the other tips from this series) can help you produce the best garments possible. There are some beautiful raglan sweaters out there that dont have neck shaping. Neither of these is carved in stone, and as you'll read below, it's rare that all sizes will require the same shaping rates. Raglan. (Not that I expect special treatment for my giant head children) Stitch gauge information must be completed. If the pattern has you decrease evenly between the bicep and the neck, add your new decreases at the top and bottom.
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